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The Serial Tourist's Guide to Jerusalem
Questions? Comments?
Copyright 2006 by Morris Rosenthal
All Rights Reserved
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If Rechavia is a neighborhood of gardens, Baka is practically a forest. I've
never seen more full grown trees in a Jerusalem neighborhood than in Baka,
and the variety is greater than in the newer neighborhoods as well. All the
trees and the privacy they bring may be a large part of what's made buying
a house or an apartment in Baka so attractive to Americans. The other attraction
is that Baka is right across the railroad tracks from the German Colony,
and a two minute walk from Emeq Refaim, it can hardly be considered the wrong
side of the tracks. Baka is primarily a mix of private homes and modest sized
apartment buildings. There are some larger developments as you move towards
Talpiyot, but Baka residents would probably call that area Makor Chaim. You'll
hear quite a bit of English on the streets as you wonder around Baka, but
the ultimate indicator of a heavy American presence is that number of real
estate ads in the Jerusalem Post. I think Baka is actually the priciest
neighborhood I've looked at so far in terms of available properties. There
aren't a huge number on the market, and apartments that are for sale tend
to be pretty expensive.
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Baka also contains the only tree house I've come across in a residential
Jerusalem neighborhood, and it's been there as long as I can remember. In
the real estate parlance of Israel, it requires shipputzim. Many of the Baka
properties I see listed are over 200 meters, and some contain that code phrase,
"For Serious Buyers Only," which I translate as, "Very Expensive." I even
saw a third floor apartment at 300 meters listed today. Building rights and
parking are common with stand-alone Baka homes, and Arab-style is a frequent
descriptor. For example, one top floor apartment in an Arab-style house listed
this week for $890,000. That includes four bedrooms and a Succah porch, but
it give you an idea what an entire house would cost a serious buyer:-) A
four room (vs four bedroom) apartment in Baka is selling for $590,000 in
the same listings, not a top floor, but includes a garden. A 185 meter penthouse
is listing for $775,000, and a two story apartment (cottage) at 150 meters,
including parking and a basement, lists for $498,000 with an exclamation
point! In other words, anything under a half-million in this size range is
being considered dirt cheap.
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While the Jerusalem Post listed more million dollar plus homes for sale in
Baka than sub-$500,000, Kol HaIr tells a different story to a different market.
While the first listing I spotted in the Hebrew paper for Baka was a $2,100,000
architectural gem, the second listing I saw as on Derech Hebron on the edge
of Baka where $300,000 buys you five rooms on the top floor, and it's just
five minutes further from the German Colony. Another five room apartment
with a private door to the garden was listed for $445,000, with a couple
more large apartments listed in the $600,000 range. Dropping into the four
bedroom range, there were a number of apartments listed in the $300,000
neighborhood, apparently in newer buildings with elevators. The listings
for Makor Chaim, which didn't appear at all in English, are listed under
Baka in Hebrew. The building pictured below is one of the largest apartment
buildings I saw in Baka, and it's probably where some of the smaller apartments
listed in Hebrew are coming from. In the three room apartment range, I saw
a couple listed right at or under $300,000, and many more with no price shown.
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The least expensive apartment I saw for sale in Baka during this survey was
a two and a half rooms for $179,000 on Derech Bethlehem. When you're reading
the real estate listings in Kol HaIr, you have to be pretty careful not to
take the indexing for granted or you can really miss quite a few offerings.
The real estate section starts out with uncategorized listings, which contain
all price ranges from all neighborhoods. Next comes a couple pages of properties
being offered by real estate agencies, and these are listed without editorial
heading inserts for the neighborhood. Space ads compete with text only ads,
and the space ads may contain multiple listings for multiple neighborhoods.
Then come the villas and housing section, which includes random high priced
properties from all over, followed by cottages, which are multi-floor houses
that usually share some walls with neighbors, and are also listed by
neighborhood. Finally, the main listings begin, starting with five or more
rooms, then four or more rooms, then three or more, etc. In each category,
there are a random sprinkling of apartments in the room range listed at the
front, after which the are listed by neighborhood.
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All that means is to see what's listed in Baka for a given week, assuming
you aren't married to a number of rooms, you have to check a dozen different
places to get all the possible listings. Despite the fact that Baka is not
a large neighborhood, there are some stark contrasts, in the sense that their
are some older streets almost exclusively populated with stand-alone houses,
and also some newer streets or completely renovated areas with mainly three
or four story apartment buildings. Through it all, they've kept the park
like feeling of the area by planting trees wherever they can fit in. There
are also a large number of pocket parks in Baka, none of which are large
enough for sports activities and the noise they bring. There always seems
to be ample street parking in the areas with the larger buildings, and many
of the smaller houses have private parking. There are still some small areas
of undeveloped property, may even have been farm land once upon a time, where
contractors are probably building luxury housing for Americans, given the
strong market.
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