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The Serial Tourist's Guide to Jerusalem
Questions? Comments?
Copyright 2006 by Morris Rosenthal
All Rights Reserved
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The house in this picture is being reconstructed in the center of a new luxury
housing complex across from the Yafo Gate. It's as large example of the stone
numbering system that allows historical buildings to be taken down and
reassembled. I suppose you could use the same system to create "historical
house kits" direct from the stone-cutter. I've seen the numbers going up
on buildings and walls all over town for years, and it a sure sign that the
building hasn't got long to live in its current incarnation. In one instance
on Yafo, you now have a beautiful long wall with multiple true arched doorways
separating the passerby from a parking lot, and that appears to be the final
state of the thing. However, it is nice when you see an Jerusalem architect
take into consideration the history or a place and the look of the neighborhood,
and try to integrate them into a new building which has been necessitated
by economics. Often, you'll see a three or four unit apartment building replace
a single family, but at least they can use the original stones for the first
floor, or a front facade.
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The picture to the right shows a long wall laid out on the ground. The number
of window openings indicates that it was the wall of a building rather than
an exterior courtyard wall, as these are also very common in Jerusalem. The
staging area here is just a few hundred yards from the Old City, in the back
of a recently constructed luxury housing project. I wonder if the buildings
that were demolished for that project are the ones that are being laid out
like jig-saw puzzles here.The stones aren't treated like archeological treasures,
the guy in the picture is flipping one up and out of the way after the truck
ran up against it trying to back through towards the camera. I'm less enthused
about taking stone walls and resurrecting them to keep the dog in some rich
guy's yard in the country, but I suppose in America, the super-rich of the
last century tried to clean out Europe of all the old castles they could
buy and bring to the West Coast. It makes for a somewhat incongruous view,
the latest luxury housing backing on a sort of a house graveyard.
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In some instances, I've seen the exterior stones of the front wall of a house
numbered and then braced in place while the old house
is complete demolished behind them. They even bring in heavy equipment
to excavate new foundations and maybe room for a two car, under the house
garage. The question is left, why painstakingly number all the stones if
you're going to wire tie them off to a welded steel framework that really
doesn't look like it's going anywhere. I don't know if it's a surplus of
caution on the part of the home renovators, or if an Israel public safety
inspector (something I have yet to see) came along after the fact and told
the contractor that with a public sidewalk right next to the wall, the usual
methods weren't going to cut it. It may also be the construction engineer
who made the decision, since they seem to be the ones who are liable for
things that go wrong with construction jobs. What really fascinates me about
this temporary staging is that it's all welded! Every junction you see (and
don't forget there's a corresponding steel post on the curb side as well)
is welded on at least on surface.
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Another interesting fact about old stone houses in Jerusalem is that if you
snoop around a bit, you'll start noticing that some are abandoned. This house
is in the middle of the upscale Jewish neighborhood in Rechavia, and I'd
guess the small plot of land it stands on without the house is worth at least
$500,000. Yet, somebody went to the trouble of bricking the whole thing up
with cinder blocks and leaving it to the elements. Even if the house was
condemned for safety reasons, you'd think they'd just tear it down and sell
out to a developer. I suspect that kooky Israelis or whacky foreigners are
responsible. If an Israeli owned the house and somehow the neighbors were
able to block development (rarely seems to happen) it would be a rich man's
revenge to say, "The hell with you then. I'll let it rot, and you'll have
to look at it." As an investment, while letting it rot isn't bringing in
any income, the land appreciation in the good neighborhoods has been a safe
bet for the last sixty or so years, so the owners wouldn't necessarily be
making any sacrifice. Another guess is that some of these properties sit
vacant because legal disputes to inheritances.
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Right next to the million dollar stone pile shown above, there's a companion
house, also blocked up. This one is a larger structure and the separate
apartments that were once on the second floor bear witness with their relatively
recent steel security doors that the place hasn't been abandoned for long,
However, in Jerusalem as in America, you can't walk away from a property
and assume it will take care of itself. Roofs fail, water damage ensues,
vegetation grows up through the cracks. The stone foundation to the left
has begin to break apart, and you can just see the start of a crack in the
concrete wall above it. Not surprisingly, this building is adorned with the
sign shown below, warning no admittance due to a danger of collapse. Again,
this is (was) easily a million dollar building in a prime neighborhood, so
how can it stand empty? I think whacky foreigners who buy or invest in Israel
and then get disgusted with the politics or the way of doing business are
also responsible for some of the discarded properties around town. I've been
collecting some shots of abandoned commercial buildings, when I have enough
for a page, I'll link it here.
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